Gulmarg

 

Gulmarg is Kashmirs ski destination in winter, it also doubles a golf course during summer months, and apparently with an array of flowers then in bloom. Although just 60 kilometers away by tarred roads through paddyfields, apple orchards, ancient bazaars and local children enjoying a game of cricket, the journey takes about 2 hours, and weather dependant you may need to swap to cars with chained tyres in Tunmarg as we did. Hiring of coats and gumboots are about 150rupees & 150rs more for a coat. Gloves are essential, possibly 2 pairs, I could not feel my fingers or toes and worried I wouldnt feel them again...the feelings come back they did.

Our drive up was on a little buggy which was arranged by a tourguide for 1000rupees, it was small, slow and at times struggled to climb up the mountains, it even got stuck once which needed manually to be pushed out, also the driver did lose control once and we ended up doing a 90 degree turn, luckily we hadnt fallen down a cliff or get knocked by fellow 4x4s. It got colder as we grew further up the pass in the minus weather with snow beginning to fall. The drivers windscreen had to be cleared of snow every now and then and his human ice pick was smart enough to damage the tiny drivers side wiper, then they fiddled for 5 minutes but it still didnt work, fear not this is India, he just craned his head to the left and watched through the passengers side.

Once on top, lucky to be alive, we were then off to sledge in the snow. Sledging? Cool, so Im thinking theres a small hill you take the sledge jump on and slide down...nope there is a HUMAN who pulls you like a wolfdog, the tourguide possibly seeing the surprise in my eyes said this is his living, his earning, how else will he support his family. I thought for a brief moment and you know really, I didnt know how else, I'm not an economist or a human resource specialist! So on I went and pretended for good measure I was whipping him as he pulled me down AND up hills.

The much spoken about gondola was closed due to an avalanche that struck 5 persons a week ago(they all are fine recovering if you are wondering). The guide told me you have the same thing in Cape Town so you didnt miss anything and the main attraction is the sledging(YEAH!!!). We did a bit of skiing as well, after a 25second lesson in hindi which I didnt understand at all, off we went as a qualified ski pro. I remember once I went to SkiDubai, to ski you needed to spend about 20 hours and Dhs1000 before you could even smell the man made snow.

The skiing will increase circulation and regain feelings in your hands, but shortly after you stop we were human popsicles. There were European tourists there as well in proper ski gear who seemed relaxed like they were lounging about on the beach, perhaps feeling hot.

I told the guide if I dont warm up at a nearby spot I will die, he warned of heavy snowfall which was starting and alternately lit a burning wicker covered claypot(kangri) which had ash that kept just our hands warm in the vehicle - it did help a lot. Back at Tunmarg we had lunch around a fireplace at a local restaurant which really needed to spellcheck their menus(menu pictures) they also covered their fans with newspaper and rubberbands so they could keep warm and dustfree until summer.

About 5 different people at the restaurant insisted I have the Yakhni, meat in some yoghurt sauce, I suggest you dont ever have the Yuck-ni I mean Yakhni. My sisters Chicken RoganJosh though was spicy enough to heat us up. We also had our first cup of Kashmiri Kahwa which was made with cinnamon, cardamom, saffron, loads of sugar, almonds and raisins. The best cup of tea ever... We found the food to be reasonably priced and the cleanliness level good.

 

Snakes items? Finger Chips!? No thanks i prefer not to fell anything!