Sonamarg

Sonamarg 80km from Srinagar is another mountain region which also during winter boasts the most picturesque snow plateaus. You will pass Sindh river, and towns so old it makes Sringar look like current Hong Kong. Ancient chinnar trees, padi fields and hydro power stations along the route, these sights will make one hardly feel the 2,5hour drive each way. It began to snow and again the roads were closed at Kund about 15km before Sonamarg.

Abdul Rashid obliged kindly everytime we wanted to stop for a picture and philosophically imparted his take on life along the drive, interestingly much he told us he was married for 33 years, well done for that alone, but he went on and said in the 33 years he has never had a fight with his wife, not once. Really! Dude 33 years...Well I hope it all isnt bottled up... In shock with nothing to really say my sister and I smiling ear to ear, as we heard on, his secret, “when my wife says anything, I just think about it...then later I realise she makes some good points” after a brief pause relishing in his accomplishment he went on to tell us that when he got married although poor he took nothing from his inlaws as dowry, which left him under no obligation. He also told us in a very humorously that new brides are usually given copper pots as a present, and the bride doesnt want to use them to serve her new inlaws which is causing marital problems. Speaking of marriage there is a matrimonial pull out section in the daily paper here, havent they heard of shaadi.com???!?

Along the way back to Srinagar, my sister needed to use the bathroom so desperately that another minute longer she would have messed Rashids nice car, we stopped a couple of times where we saw amongst the old buildings some really new public facilities, unfortunately though they were closed. She ended up going to what was called a restaurant but inside seemed as though there was an exodus and all but tables and chairs were left, while she was using the inhouse restroom, I felt obliged to buy something to compensate for her relief, but all he had was some packets of chips expired for 8 months and so thick with dust that I thought it was part of their packaging, dusty masala? I still bought them for 20rupees each. I enquired if there was any food being prepared and he said no the restaurant was closed for 2 months, he just comes to serve tea and let passers use the toilet. He was really more interested in knowing if there was snow at Sonamarg and how far we'd travelled.

Ab Rashid was kind enough to take us through the 3 sections of the Dal lake on the way back, the reflection on the lake almost seams surreal, 2 of the areas does not allow houseboats, and whatever houseboats that are in Srinagar have been sold or given as gifts by the British, who built them because they were unable to purchase immovable property here. Although there is enough space to accommodate more houseboats no new houseboats may be constructed, and only the current ones may be upgraded.

We had dinner at the Lalit, winter being off peak season, their heated 50+ seater restaurant was empty, I still asked them if they had a table just incase the guests were all invisible or camouflaged in red saris and suits to the décor. I couldnt take any photos though, it was awkward enough ambushed with the 7 waiters ready to serve us like Muhgal kings, every time I had a sip of water the waiter would refill it, while I was trying to finish my glass of water they were trying to finish the bottle so I had to stop drinking. The food was out of this world, the naan was bathed in butter(more butter than naan) which went great with the chicken murg masala and waza kebabs. I think we were early though because a few families made their way for dinner, more waiters were brought in as we finished up.